By Mari Sato and Dakota Rose
In the 10 years since the late Virgil Abloh founded Off-White, every show has been held in Paris. Although Abloh was born in the US, this was a very intentional business decision to bridge streetwear and high fashion. Off-White has solidified its place as a pillar of luxury streetwear, and under the new creative direction of Ib Kamara, the brand is returning to its American roots. In true Americana style, the collection fused sporty and sexy in a chic and style-able way. Furthermore, the collection featured camouflage and letterman-style aspects in a nod to brand heritage. The designer drew inspiration from his own multicultural background, having been born in Sierra Leone, growing up in London, and now working with the Italian brand. Ultimately, Ib Kamara wanted to convey the multicultural background of the brand and the people who wear it. What better place to do that than in the melting pot of New York?
“Duty-Free,” the title of the collection, is symbolic of a free exchange of multicultural ideas without the taxation of appropriation. The collection incorporates vital symbols of a variety of different cultures and communities. It primarily draws on the star as a representation of unity and freedom both for Ghana and America. As an example, Look 40 uses the star motif, netting, and feathers. Kamara uses the star embellishments on the top and as a sequin applique over the netted skirt. The skirt also features feathers tapering down the netting with a fun and flirty flapper-esque effect. Individually, there are some bold and inspiring looks. Kamara obviously has a narrative in mind, however, the audience loses touch with the essence of his vision because of the overwhelming mix of inspirations. The collection would benefit from a little Chanel: looking in the mirror and removing one accessory before leaving the house.
Overall, the collection reads a little incohesive, we hope this was done intentionally as a sample of what is to come, rather than an oversight in the foundation of Off-White. With a diverse heritage like Off-White it can be easy to be pulled in a million different directions, and hard to find a concise way of incorporating such vibrant roots. Hopefully, some of the themes projected in Kamara’s first collection will be explored more diligently on their own in future collections with greater specificity and cohesion.
