By Isabella Popo
“I feel like Vogue has gotten boring. It’s really cool what Marc Jacobs has done,” freshman Helen Ezelle said.
News broke last week that Anna Wintour loosened her creative reins, inviting Marc Jacobs to serve as the first U.S. guest editor for the Vogue December issue. While Wintour has previously collaborated with guest editors for the British and French editions of the magazine, this marks the first time anyone – let alone a designer – has been given the opportunity to edit the U.S. issue. SMU students had lots to say about this groundbreaking move.
According to an article in The Independent, Wintour said that the election results left her unsure of how to approach the December Issue. With emotions high, she decided to take a step back and ask for outside input. In an interview with The New York Times, Wintour explained that choosing Jacobs for role was an easy decision. “There was never anyone else in my mind,” Wintour explained. “If he had said no, I would have gone a different route, not to another person.”
Jacobs told the New York Times that he was intimidated by this offer, but he knew he’d regret turning it down.
When Jacobs first pitched the concept to have Wintour on the cover, she laughed and dismissed his idea with a “move on.” With that suggestion off the table, Jacobs turned to his next muse: Kaia Gerber.
Gerber was styled in vibrant, bold pieces from Marc Jacobs’ Spring 2024 collection. The designs prominently feature dramatic, sculptural shapes with couture-level detailing. On the cover, Gerber is seen in a voluminous gown with a striking color-block design in pink, blue and black. The silhouette is structured and almost architectural, reflecting Jacobs’ flair for theatrical fashion.
Jacobs said that he “just wanted to celebrate creativity, freedom, movement, style, art,” and all the things he feels like we desire.
In this edition, Jacobs draws on nostalgic influences, with nods to vintage couture, but reimagines them in a contemporary, almost surrealist context. This includes retro hairstyles, dramatic makeup and references to mid-century elegance, juxtaposed with modern styling techniques. Jacobs also embraces a joyful and vibrant color palette, with bold combinations of primary colors, pastels and jewel tones.
Students around SMU’s campus praised the collaboration but have doubts about Jacobs’ potential as a permanent replacement for Wintour.
“Marc Jacobs may not be the most qualified,” Ezelle said. “The editors right now at Chloe and Isabel Marant are doing a really good job, and I think someone with that experience would be great for Vogue.”
Junior Chloe Casdorph agreed. “Nobody can ever be the new Anna Wintour,” she said, adding that she would love to see Hamish Bowles, Vogue‘s global editor, succeed Wintour. Casdorph met Bowles in Paris over the summer.
Sophomore Emma Grevemberg says she has no clue who would be fit to fill Wintour’s shoes. “Anna Wintour is the queen,” she said. “I don’t even know, but, not Marc Jacobs,” Grevemberg added. “I don’t like his stuff.”
All in all, this collaboration will go down in history. This issue not only celebrates Jacobs’ influence but also redefines what a fashion magazine can achieve by merging diverse artistic disciplines. It reflects Jacobs’ reputation as a boundary-pushing designer and a visionary in contemporary culture.
Cover Artwork by Staff Member Emma Glaser
